Bill's is a chain, born of earnest humble roots. There are six of them in total - the original one founded in Lewes, 2001. The concept started as a sort of grocer/deli/cafe serving simple stuff well made with local produce. The offspring of this idea are in Cambridge, Brighton, Reading, Islington and Covent Garden.

At first glance, the place appears fun, colourful and offbeat, which adds to the allure. You just want to get in and have an explore. The walls are basically floor to ceiling shelves of deli stuff, mostly own brand pickles, oils and jams. The main tables look like very large pieces of driftwood ready to accept communal eating. The roof is a maze of stylish metal pipework, the sort that Tom ...