An insiders' small essential list of food and drink venues in Cambridge 2011

The other 'new' Chop House is directly opposite The Punter pub. Much like the Kings Parade restaurant called the Cambridge Chop House, this venue has changed hands several times, the last incarnation being Prezzo (yuck), so it would not be hard to improve on things.

The entrance is a challenge. Several door look-alikes until you find the correct one at the side. The first room you enter contains a large narrow bar, with a few stools, and a wood burner. Almost like a pub, but not, in fact falling between the very same stools. This area is quite large and for a busy night was unpopulated with both people and atomsphere (apart from a barman and a couple of customers waiting to be seated). It seems almost a waste of space and a soulless start to a dining experience. There is no sense of restaurant and buzz when you walk in. This area is blighted as it is really too difficult to fit lots of covers in there, and does not really appeal as a bar to sit at, but I cannot imaging what else could be done. The 17th century building is such an odd shape, you have little to work with. Given the choice I would rather wait in the Punter over the road for my table.

Anyway we were ushered through to the main dining area which is split in two, both parts overlooking Northampton Street's busy road (and the diners in The Punter) through large bay windows. The tables (either super-laminated or faux, wood chopping boards, not sure..) are the same as in the Cambridge Chop House except a darker more unattractive colour. I am unsure about them as they do look and feel like they are there for the convenience of the 'wiping' staff rather than pure aesthetics. The floor is however nice with long wooden boards.

It was a Saturday night and the place was full to bursting (except the ghostly quiet bar area). The menu was very similar to the Cambridge Chop House. A few differences here and there, but basically the same. I suppose why change a winning formula, but it would be nice to find a bit more originality between the two venues in the same small town, after all we are not talking about McDonald's here. My starter was disappointing as the onion tart transpired to be a few bits of cooked onion on a tiny puff pasty square. It was very basic and lacking in volume for £6.00. I wanted a proper tart with shortcrust pastry. My main course however was amazing. Fish stew to die for. I will be having that again.

My choice of wine was a glass of claret (I was driving and with minimum glass size at 175ml it was the weaker option). Not a pleasant drink, and I left half of it. £4.80 wasted.

I found the St John's Chop House, like the lighting inside, a bit too subdued. It was missing that x-factor the Cambridge Chop House on Kings Parade has in spades.

Verdict

The food and service are mostly of a high standard in this chain, there are little cracks appearing though, and this place somehow fails to inspire.

a note on the names - I cannot fathom the naming of the two restaurants. Why call one 'Cambridge', which is a general name, implying the only one in Cambridge, and the other 'St John's', which gives a very general clue to its position (and maybe the owner of the building, who knows)? Surely it would be less confusing to either call them both 'The Chop House' or rename the Cambridge one to reflect its location within the town too?

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