An insiders' small essential list of food and drink venues in Cambridge 2010

On the face of it this pub is easy to miss. Placed opposite the new Chop House, slightly out of the town center.

It has changed hands a few times, and now finally seems to have found its feet in Paul the chef, and partner in the business.

The bar offers a good selection of real ales (mostly Adnams at the time of writing), along with some quality draught lagers. The menu of mostly English and French style food is small and on freshly printer paper, which reflects the fact that it changes daily, and presents fewer dishes prepared extremely well. I suppose you could call it a 'gastro' pub, but it still cleverly retains the sense of a plain old pub.

The interior is cosy and well worn, and the feel of the place is not overly professional (in a good way). There is a large courtyard outside, next to a surprising addition, a converted barn, offering an alternative light and airy place to sit. This impressive vaulted space is popular for hiring out for private functions. I went to a wedding reception there recently which went down very well. The canapes provided by Paul were some of the best I have tasted at a wedding.

I eat here about once every couple of months and am always excited by the menu.

Verdict

It may be literally in the shadow of the 'St John's Chop House', but unlike the relatively static Chop House menu this one feels alive.

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